Hakodate
We arrived at a small but ultra-modern train station. Our few nights there were in a hotel only 3 days old. The rest of the visit was an historical concoction from the last 200 years.
Hakodate's unique appearance is due to Japan's reluctance to allow foreigners to enter the country until the mid 1800s. After this time only a few ports were opened, including Hakodate.
In fact, only Russian, USA, Dutch, British and French were allowed to trade. This caused a concentration of foreigners in each of the selected ports. The others were Yokohama and Nagasaki.
As people do when abroad they tried to re-create familiar churches, buildings and gathering places.
The joy of visiting Hakodate is the ability to visit a genuine Russian Orthodox church ( rebuilt 1916), stroll a few minutes and have tea in what was the British Consulate (built 1913) and then into a Chinese temple. In between are old and new Japanese houses and buildings.
The Russian church is known by locals as The Gangan-dera, which translates as the Ding Dong temple. The tolling bells were unusual to the Japanese at that time.
The foreigner's graveyard have all western nationalities especially those from the countries listed earlier. The graveyard was placed high on a hill and according to the sign outside placed facing east so the dead could face their homeland.
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The consulates and the old Japanese town hall are built in a federation style. Many would not look out of place in San Fransisco or Savannah, GA.
We stayed at the Hotel La-Vista. Built in the docks area. The ground floor had been an old warehouse. The flooring was the original wooden fittings and the brickwork had been reworked but still had the feel of another era.
On the roof was an open air hot spring bath (onsen). From here there are fantastic views of the city, countryside and port.
The onsen area was not mixed sex. The routine for bathing was the same as the rest of Japan. In brief, go to the changing room, leave ALL of your clothes in a wicker basket, carry your modesty towel down to the bathing area. After a thorough clean and rinse in the shower you are free to lounge in the very hot water.
Some people stay in for hours. Thirty minutes is usually my maximum. After the soaking no need to shower again, dry off and get dressed.
Afterwards most people feel relaxed, clean and with a great appetite. This is great as the food is amazing.
In Hakodate all types of Japanese, Asian and Western food is available. However, there are two classic Japanese dishes associated with this area. Ramen ( a hot noodle soup usually made with pork or squid) and the freshest seafood you could imagine.
The climate is cold and the tendancy is the food to be warming and nourishing. The local beers are refreshing and compliment the food well.
During the day an old fashioned tram system runs from the old dock area to the modern centre. The trams are original items and are very old. For around $3 (US) a daily pass is available.
Whilst walking around the city we came across a public foot spa About 5 metres lond by 1 metre wide and about 30cm deep. As we were soaking our feet it was also used by some young mums, high school boys and an Italian tourist. We all sat around gently flapping our feet, the locals chit chatting the boys looking serious ( so were probably not talking about girls, more likely exams or university places) but all appreciating a few moments of foot onsen.
Hakodate is on the south side of Hokkaido, the second largest of Japan's islands. A population of 6 million but nearly always placed at the back of any travel guide. Probably more famous for the powder snow and great skiing Hokkaido has much more to offer out of the ski season.
We arrived at a small but ultra-modern train station. Our few nights there were in a hotel only 3 days old. The rest of the visit was an historical concoction from the last 200 years.
Hakodate's unique appearance is due to Japan's reluctance to allow foreigners to enter the country until the mid 1800s. After this time only a few ports were opened, including Hakodate.
In fact, only Russian, USA, Dutch, British and French were allowed to trade. This caused a concentration of foreigners in each of the selected ports. The others were Yokohama and Nagasaki.
As people do when abroad they tried to re-create familiar churches, buildings and gathering places.
The joy of visiting Hakodate is the ability to visit a genuine Russian Orthodox church ( rebuilt 1916), stroll a few minutes and have tea in what was the British Consulate (built 1913) and then into a Chinese temple. In between are old and new Japanese houses and buildings.
The Russian church is known by locals as The Gangan-dera, which translates as the Ding Dong temple. The tolling bells were unusual to the Japanese at that time.
The foreigner's graveyard have all western nationalities especially those from the countries listed earlier. The graveyard was placed high on a hill and according to the sign outside placed facing east so the dead could face their homeland.
The consulates and the old Japanese town hall are built in a federation style. Many would not look out of place in San Fransisco or Savannah, GA.
We stayed at the Hotel La-Vista. Built in the docks area. The ground floor had been an old warehouse. The flooring was the original wooden fittings and the brickwork had been reworked but still had the feel of another era.
On the roof was an open air hot spring bath (onsen). From here there are fantastic views of the city, countryside and port.
The onsen area was not mixed sex. The routine for bathing was the same as the rest of Japan. In brief, go to the changing room, leave ALL of your clothes in a wicker basket, carry your modesty towel down to the bathing area. After a thorough clean and rinse in the shower you are free to lounge in the very hot water.
Some people stay in for hours. Thirty minutes is usually my maximum. After the soaking no need to shower again, dry off and get dressed.
Afterwards most people feel relaxed, clean and with a great appetite. This is great as the food is amazing.
In Hakodate all types of Japanese, Asian and Western food is available. However, there are two classic Japanese dishes associated with this area. Ramen ( a hot noodle soup usually made with pork or squid) and the freshest seafood you could imagine.
The climate is cold and the tendancy is the food to be warming and nourishing. The local beers are refreshing and compliment the food well.
During the day an old fashioned tram system runs from the old dock area to the modern centre. The trams are original items and are very old. For around $3 (US) a daily pass is available.
Whilst walking around the city we came across a public foot spa About 5 metres lond by 1 metre wide and about 30cm deep. As we were soaking our feet it was also used by some young mums, high school boys and an Italian tourist. We all sat around gently flapping our feet, the locals chit chatting the boys looking serious ( so were probably not talking about girls, more likely exams or university places) but all appreciating a few moments of foot onsen.
Hakodate is on the south side of Hokkaido, the second largest of Japan's islands. A population of 6 million but nearly always placed at the back of any travel guide. Probably more famous for the powder snow and great skiing Hokkaido has much more to offer out of the ski season.
